If theres any place on Long
Island where one can go to contemplate nature in its
purity, it isnt Indian Island, a one-hundred-RV
campground just barely outside the city of Riverhead.
I was in such a good mood, though, that I did anyway.
I serenely contemplated nature from the parks
tiny beach. I serenely contemplated in the leafy
woods, I contemplated more inquisitively, but still
serene, in the strip of odd scrubby dunes between
them. The land was woven together perfectly, fresh
and clean. The sun was hot; I scuffled back to the
campground, towel slung over my shoulder, the dirt
road wandering up between my toes. A boy from a
nearby campsite beamed as he introduced me to his
dog, which I scratched behind the ears. Here was the
archetypal Independence Day weekend: I saw nothing on
the American continent today but friends and
neighbors. I was raised up from the rich soil like
Adam; I was a dweller in Eden, at home in a landscape
of generous hospitality. And in the car on the way
home, I found a fat tick dug into the back of my
shoulder.
I imagine it sidled onto me as I
brushed against some stem and then crawled up the
outside of my shirt, under my collar, and down my
shoulder blade until it found a spot it liked. It
must have found me while I was in the woods that
morning, which means that there was a three-hour
stretch in which the tick was sipping at my blood, as
serene as I was. But when I found it welded to me in
the car, I ruined the blissful moment for both of us
in a hurrymy own hospitality, apparently, not
so generous.
I ripped it offnot the wisest
thing to do with ticks, especially in the land of
Lyme diseaseluckily a piece of my skin came off
with its jaws, rather than its head coming off its
neck and staying buried in me. I felt a little
crazed. Vanessa kept on driving; I trapped the thing
in a fold in a plastic bag and did my best to murder
it. It was a quarter of an inch long, a sickly beige,
and, incidentally, one of the horseshoe crabs
closest living relatives, though this was not on my
mind at the time. I was too busy hating it, scorning
it, staring in awe at it, and fearing it in quick
succession. I wasnt observing very closely what
the tick was doing during this time: wriggling,
probably, losing some legs under my fingernail,
definitely not dying. I finally flung the tick out
the car window and it whipped behind us at fifty
miles an hour. I wouldnt be surprised if it
made it back to the woods.
Theres no war-glory in these
encounters, none of that crimson-streaked,
lion-taking-down-a-springbok atmosphere that the
nineteenth-century Romantics and their modern
successorsTV wildlife specials find so
satisfying. Theres precious little of it out in
the wild anywhere. Animals in general just
arent angry at each other, even when
theyre eating each other, and they fight dirty.
Most of the violence in the world isnt combat,
but something slower, more banal, more sniveling.
Nature isnt really so red in
tooth and claw; its more like black comedy,
occasionally dry and understated like the dead kelp
on a beach, more often slapstick. The worlds
full of raucous marauders (like the gulls who snatch
up spider crabs and drop them on the rocks from forty
feet up, repeatedly, to crack them open), practical
jokes (like the spider crabs discovering that out of
the water theyre too weak to lift their own
pincers to defend themselves), and plenty of raw
meata real carnival, in the sense of the word
that honors its linguistic link with carnal, carnage,
and chili con carne. Try to spend a weekend
inhabiting a nobler or friendlier kind of wilderness,
and some greasy critter shows up on your shoulder to
remind you how good you taste. This is our family.
Were going to be meeting at these holiday
barbecues till the end of time.